Where to eat and drink in Istanbul: From tradesmen's restaurants to market stalls

In Kadikoy's abundant and busy neighbourhood market on Istanbul's Asian shore, there are many familiar sights. Stunning displays of fish fresh from the Marmara, Aegean and Mediterranean seas, olives in every hue from black to chartreuse to pale yellow, strings of dried chillies and sacks of herbs and spices such as sage, oregano, hibiscus and allspice berries. But every now and then, there is an unexpected curveball.
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