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Clad in a swimsuit, I hesitantly push open the door and step on to a crisp layer of snow. It's 8am and my plastic flip-flops leave footprints in the fresh flakes as I walk around and catch my breath. Nearby, a woman eases herself into a bubbling whirlpool which, at 39C, is too hot for me, despite the chilly morning stroll. We exchange pleasantries, speculating on whether or not the Bay of Biscay's infamous Atlantic swell is going to be kind to us later in the day.











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