Barbara Hepworth's St Ives: A tour of the inspirational town as a Tate Britain retrospective opens

"Are you OK to get a bit mucky?" asks the drawing teacher as he hands me a stick of charcoal on the hill above the ocean. Daniel Barnard squints at the seaside town below us, its granite houses and sparkling beaches, and starts to scratch in his sketchbook. I take the grubby stick, stare at the pretty fishing port that was once the centre of modern art in Britain, and wonder where to begin.

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