Turkey's Black Sea coast: The road to Sinop is paved with good intentions

At the top of the hill, my car stalled as I hit the brakes. Cicadas buzzed in the sudden silence as I tried to work out where the road went next. I was alone, my GPS had taken a sabbatical and it was almost impossible to tell which of the two tracks ahead of me was a lane that would soon dwindle to nothing in the pine forest and which was the brave new road along Turkey's Black Sea coast.

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