Reims, Champagne's capital, the city of surrender
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For several minutes, I am convinced I have gone the wrong way. The cobbled lanes of medieval Reims have faded behind me, the twin towers of its cathedral drifting into the distance. I have crossed the wide grass of Les Promenades, the mile-long curve of park which delineates the upper edge of the centre – in doing so, passing beneath the strong shoulders of the Porte de Mars, the 3rd-century gateway which marked the entrance to the Roman city. And I have wandered over the railway line where fast TGV trains link the capital of the Champagne region to the grand avenues of Paris, 90 miles to the south-west.











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