Peru beyond the Inca trail: Join the Peruvian jet-set for vegan restaurants and superlative surfing

The bus was about to plummet 200m off the cliff and into the Pacific – or so I had convinced myself. The tyres, centimetres from the edge, crunched over scree and discarded onions which lay scattered in the road. It wasn't hard to imagine where the truck carrying the delivery had gone. The thick fog restricted visibility enough to veil the trucks hurtling towards us, but not enough to hide the debris that littered the road.

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