Jura by bike: Land of the freewheelers

It started badly. We had dragged ourselves from the huge bed with its fluffy duvet and fine linen at the Hotel du Paris in the old city of Besançon; negotiated the cycle path out of town; bowled along beside the lovely river Doubs for a couple of kilometres, its green forested banks sweeping up the sides of the gorge; when we came to our first hill.

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