Cruise Argyll's coastline: Opening up lochs, isles and elusive sea life in a spectacular corner of Scotland

From Splendour's wheelhouse, only the green-glowing radar screen penetrates the fog. All around, above the glassy calm of silent sea, the boundary between water and sky is lost in shades of grey. Our skipper, Iain Duncan, peers through binoculars. Off the bow the head of a grey seal surfaces to survey the boat, perhaps hoping we're still in the fish business. "What's the strangest thing you've encountered in these waters?" I ask.

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